Licensed Remodeling Specialists in:
WE AT PARKO HOME RENOVATIONS HAVE EARNED
THE REPUTATION OF BEING ONE OF THE BEST VALUE KITCHEN REMODELING COMPANIES IN THE AREA. WHEN WE SCHEDULE A KITCHEN WE KNOW
THAT IT IS THE HEART OF YOUR HOME AND NEEDS TO BE FINISHED AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT SACRIFICING QUALITY. WE ARE THE
HOME OF THE KITCHEN REMODELED IN A WEEK FOR A STANDARD REMODEL. BUT STILL MOST OF OUR EXTENSIVE REMODELED KITCHENS ONLY TOOK
TWO WEEKS. WE ARE NOT THE COMPANY THAT WILL TAKE MONTHS TO FINISH YOUR KITCHEN REMODEL. UNLESS YOU LIKE EATING PIZZA. WE HAVE TEAMED UP WITH A LOCAL SUPPLIER AND OFFER GREAT CABINETS
WITH INCREDIBLE INCLUDED UPGRADES FOR A GREAT PRICE! WHEN YOU GO WITH PARKO HOME RENOVATIONS YOU GET UNSURPASSED SERVICE!
AND AS ALWAYS OUR STAFF IS ALL IN HOUSE
We guarantee to replace your existing kitchen
and be finished with your kitchen remodel in one week.
some restrictions apply
Click here so you can fill out our request an estimate form
Your kitchen is the heart of your home. It’s a place where your family, friends and loved ones gather to share meals and memories.
Your kitchen should be functional, yet pleasant and inviting. If you love your home, but are not satisfied with your kitchen,
Parko Home Renovations has the perfect solutions for you! We can help you transform your present kitchen into the kitchen
of your dreams. We can do a full layout including any wall that may need to be moved or opened up for an airy feel. We offer
great designs, cabinets and wood species, an array or counter top fabrications and finishes, sinks, faucets, ceramic back
splashes, flooring and more. We can design a look and feel, to match your budget
Kitchen islands have become the main attraction in
the kitchen by adding more storage and counter space and also creating entertainment areas for family and friends.
Island, located in the center of the kitchen, is almost always finished with the same material that was used
for counters to create a more complete look. Islands can either have a sink, a cooktop, or just have
a bar area. The height of an island should be well-designed for chairs and stools to create a pleasant sitting
area.
Kitchen
peninsulas are also another way to create informal sitting area and add more storage space by installing drawers and compartments
in its base. Peninsula is usually attached to one wall and works well in small kitchen where there is no
room for an island. It may function as an aesthetic barrier between the kitchen and a living room or a small home office.
KITCHEN
CABINET INFORMATION
Cabinets Cabinet
Construction. Stock-grade kitchen cabinets are manufactured in standard sizes and warehoused until sold. Semi-custom
grade kitchen cabinets are available in a wide variety of styles and shapes. Within limits, the manufacturer builds the kitchen
cabinets to match the kitchen. Custom-grade kitchen cabinets are built specifically for the kitchen and include specialty
doors, interior features, woods, and construction. Cabinet Grades. Economy grade: Stock-grade
kitchen cabinets with flush-face doors. Doors made from veneered particleboard.
Standard grade: Stock-grade
kitchen cabinets with raised panel or cathedral doors. Interior panel may be plywood. Lower grade plastic-laminate face kitchen
cabinets.
Semi-custom cabinets: Semi-custom grade kitchen cabinets are available in a wide variety of
styles and shapes. Within limits, the manufacturer builds the kitchen cabinets to match the kitchen.
High
grade: Semi-custom kitchen cabinets with raised panel or cathedral doors. Higher grade plastic-laminate face and foil-face
kitchen cabinets.
Deluxe grade: Semi-custom kitchen cabinets with raised panel or cathedral doors. May
include special slide-out drawers, pull-out baskets, glass doors, or foil-face cabinets. Materials include cherry, pecan,
and Shaker-style maple or pine.
Custom grade: Custom kitchen cabinets with raised panel or cathedral
doors. May include special slide-out drawers, pull-out baskets, mullion or leaded glass doors. Materials include cherry, pecan,
and Shaker-style maple or pine.
Custom deluxe grade: Same as Custom Grade, may have some curved wood cabinets and more
custom features.
Foil-Face Cabinets. Foil-faced kitchen cabinets (also called thermo foil) are coated with
rigid polyvinyl chloride (PVC) that has been heated and pressed. The interior core is usually medium density particleboard.
Currently, there is no good way to repair scratched or dented foil-face kitchen cabinets. Although colors do not fade from
foil-faces, it is almost impossible to replace doors or other parts with colors that will match. Foil-face kitchen cabinets
are high to custom deluxe quality depending on the selection of interior features and the complexity of the design.
Cabinets Top
quality kitchen cabinets are built with the structural stability of fine furniture. Kitchen cabinet framing stock is kiln
dried and a full 1" thick. Kitchen cabinets have backs, usually 5-ply 3/16"-thick plywood, with all backs and interiors
finished. Kitchen cabinet frames should be constructed of hardwood with mortise and tenon joints; corner blocks should be
used on all four corners of all base kitchen cabinets. Kitchen cabinet doors are usually of select 7/16" thick solid
core construction using semi-concealed hinges. Kitchen cabinet end panels are 1/2" thick and attached to frames with
mortise and tenon joints, glued and pinned under pressure. Kitchen cabinet panels should also be dadoed to receive the tops
and bottoms of wall cabinets. Shelves are adjustable with veneer faces and front edges. The hardware includes magnetic catches,
heavy duty die cast pulls and hinges, and ball-bearing suspension system. The finish is scratch and stain resistant, including
a first coat of hand-wiped stain, a sealer coat, and a synthetic varnish with plastic laminate characteristics. Average
quality kitchen cabinets feature hardwood frame construction with plywood backs and veneered plywood end panels. Joints
are glued mortise and tenon. Kitchen cabinet doors are solid core attached with exposed self-closing hinges. Shelves are adjustable,
and drawers ride on a ball-bearing side suspension glide system. The finish is usually three coats including stain, sealer,
and a mar-resistant top coat for easy cleaning. Economy quality kitchen cabinets feature pine construction with joints
glued under pressure. Doors, drawers fronts, and side or end panels are constructed of either 1/2"-thick wood composition
board or 1/2"-thick veneered pine. Face frames are 3/4"-thick wood composition board or 3/4"-thick pine. Features
include adjustable shelves, hinge straps, and a three-point suspension system on drawers (using nylon rollers). The finish
consists of a filler coat, base coat, and final polyester top coat. Our Kitchen Remodeling Procedure: We
listen to what your Kitchen Remodeling budget is and work with you to develop the best Kitchen Remodeling design we can provide
for the cost. We listen to what your kitchen remodeling needs are and develop a layout plan. We look at your Kitchen
to be remodeled and take note of the following: 1. Floor space. 2. Height and width of all walls. 3. Location
of electrical outlets and advise if upgrades are needed. 4. Size and position of doors, windows, and vents. 5.
Location of any posts or pillars. 6. Common height and depth of base cabinets (including 1" for countertops) and
wall cabinets. Any Modifications to the existing kitchen: 1. What do you have to fit into the available space?
Are you adding any appliances or counter area? 2. Is there enough counter space on both sides of all appliances and
sinks? The kitchen has three work centers, each with a major appliance as its hub, and each needing adequate counter space.
They are: a. Fresh and frozen food center -- Refrigerator-freezer b. Clean-up center -- Sink with disposal-dishwasher c.
Cooking center -- Range-oven 3. Will the sink workspace fit neatly in front of a window? 4. The kitchen triangle
is the most efficient kitchen design; it means placing each major center at approximately equidistant triangle points. The
ideal triangle is 22 feet total. It should never be less than 13 feet or more than 25 feet. 5. Where are the kitchen
centers located? A logical working and walking pattern is from refrigerator to sink to range. The refrigerator should be at
a triangle point near a door, to minimize the distance to bring in groceries and reduce traffic that could interfere with
food preparation. The range should be at a triangle point near the serving and dining area. The sink is located between the
two. The refrigerator should be located far enough from the range so that the heat will not affect the refrigerator's
cooling efficiency. 6. Does the plan allow for lighting the range and sink work centers and for ventilating the range
center?
Kitchens – Plan at least two 20-amp small appliance circuits to serve the kitchen, pantry and dining area. These
circuits are in addition to circuits used by the refrigerator, dishwasher, oven, range, garbage disposer and lighting. Every
kitchen counter wider than 12" needs at least one outlet. No point on a kitchen counter can be more than 24" from
an outlet. That means you need at outlet at least every 4' over counters. Outlets have to be mounted on a wall, not face-up
in the counter. The outlet next to the sink must be protected with a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Plan on dedicated
circuits for the range, dishwasher, garbage disposer, refrigerator, and microwave oven. A microwave oven will trip the breaker
if it’s on the same circuit with another large appliance, such as a refrigerator.
Kitchen appliances You’ll never see an old kitchen with adequate electrical
service. Upgrading the electrical service is a prime reason for remodeling most kitchens. Consider the following checklist
when planning extra runs from the electrical service panel. Note that some building codes require as many as three ground-fault
receptacles in the kitchen. If you’re adding base cabinets, figure which electrical outlets have to be moved. Kitchen
Electrical Service Checklist: Ceiling fixture Ceiling paddle fan Clock in soffit Dishwasher Disposer Electric
range Range hood Soffit lighting (fluorescent strip) Light fixture recessed over the sink Light fixture
over the desk Microwave oven Oven Refrigerator Three ground-fault receptacles Small appliance
outlets Trash compactor T.V. Wall or ceiling exhaust fan Wall switches
Kitchen
flooring varies from hardwood, laminate to marble and tiles. The flooring
material and the color will depend on the color and style of kitchen cabinets. In order to create a flawless look the colors of the kitchen cabinets and flooring
should be rather similar, unless trying to create a more dramatic impression.
Floors and tile Some types of floor cover are more durable than
others. Vinyl lasts longer than carpet. Ceramic tile lasts longer than wood block or strip flooring. But no floor material
has a life expectancy equal to that of the house itself. That makes flooring a popular focus in home improvement work. All
floor cover requires a base that’s structurally sound, clean, level (to 1/4" per 10’ span) and dry (moisture
content of the subfloor should not exceed 13 percent). Concrete makes a good base, assuming the surface is smooth and incorporates
a good vapor barrier. Untempered hardboard, plywood, and particleboard also make a good base for flooring. Use either 1/4"-
or 3/8"-thick sheets. Underlayment needs a 1/32" gap at the edges and the ends to allow for expansion. Underlayment-grade
plywood has a sanded, C-plugged or better face. If moisture isn’t a problem, use interior type plywood. Otherwise use
either exterior or interior grade plywood with exterior glue. Trowel on a smooth coat of cement-based underlay to prepare
nearly any floor surface for resilient flooring. Repair, recover or remove? Adhesive
used to secure resilient flooring tends to deteriorate when moisture comes up through the subfloor. If resilient tile comes
loose, Parko Home Renovations can reset the tile in new adhesive that’s designed for use below grade. If the
resilient tile is cracked, broken or has chipped edges, it’s usually better to install new flooring. Matching new tile
with old tile isn’t practical. Resilient tile changes color with age. But it may not be necessary to remove the old
surface when installing new. If the old surface is scarred, stained, abraded or has been embossed by the weight of furniture, Parko
Home Renovations can apply a liquid leveler, or trowel on a cement-based underlayment to smooth the surface. Parko Home
Renovations can install the new floor cover. If unevenness in the underlayment is showing through, remove the old surface
and do some leveling before installing the new floor cover. Remove resilient tile if the new floor cover is also to be resilient
tile. If a wood floor is smooth and free of large cracks, refinishing may put the floor back in like-new condition.
Most wood flooring can be sanded and refinished several times. Softwood flooring with no subfloor is an exception. Even one
sanding might weaken the floor too much. Plywood block flooring can sometimes be sanded and refinished. Thin wood flooring
and wood flooring with wide cracks usually has to be replaced – any patch would be obvious. New
Wood FlooringNew Wood Flooring __________________________________________________________________________ Wood
flooring, sheet vinyl with resilient backing, and carpeting can be installed directly over an existing hardwood floor, assuming
any voids have been filled and the surface isn’t loose. Shrinkage cracks are more common where boards are wide. Parko
Home Renovations can install laminated wood flooring over ceramic, wood or resilient flooring, so long as the surface is firm
and dry. New wood flooring __________________________________________________________________________ Hardwood
flooring is available in tongue-and-groove strips and blocks (parquet). Some thinner patterns of strip flooring are square-edged.
The most common hardwood strip flooring is 25/32" thick by 2-1/4" wide and has a hollow back. Strips are random
lengths and vary from 2’ to 16’ long. The face is slightly wider than the bottom so joints will be tight on the
surface. Softwood flooring is also available in strips and blocks. Most softwood strip flooring has tongue-and-groove
edges, although some types are end matched. Softwood flooring costs less than most hardwood species, but it’s also less
wear-resistant and shows surface abrasions more readily. Use softwood flooring in light traffic areas such as closets. No
matter which type of flooring you select, Parko Home Renovations will give the material a few days to reach the moisture content
of the room where it will be installed. Strip flooring is normally laid at right angles to the floor joists. When new
strip flooring is installed over old, Parko Home Renovations will lay the new strips at right angles to the old, no matter
what direction the floor joists run. Parko Home Renovations begin installation of tongue-and-groove flooring by placing
the first strip 1/2" to 5/8" away from the wall. That allows for expansion and prevents buckling when the moisture
content increases. Parko Home Renovations nail straight down through the face of the first strip. The nail will be close
enough to the wall to be covered by the base or shoe molding. We nail into a joist if the new flooring is laid at right angles
to the joists. Drive a second nail through the tongue of this first strip. All other strips are nailed through the tongue
only. Parko Home Renovations drive these nails at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees. We leave the head just above the surface
to avoid damaging the strip with our hammer. Parko Home Renovations then use a large nail set to drive nails the last quarter
inch. New Wood FlooringNew Wood Flooring __________________________________________________________________________ Parko
Home Renovations stagger the end joints of strip flooring so butts are separated in adjacent courses. We install each new
strip tightly against the previously installed strip. We use shorter strips and crooked strips at the end of courses
or in closets. Parquet tile is made from narrow wood slats formed into a square. Parquet block flooring can be applied
with adhesive over a concrete floor protected from moisture with a vapor barrier. Laminate Wood FlooringLaminate
Wood Flooring __________________________________________________________________________ Laminate
flooring strips are made from layers of wood and finished with a hard synthetic surface. Pergo® is one popular name. Most
laminate flooring is loose lay; neither nails nor adhesive are used. Instead, the flooring floats on a cushioning material
designed to reduce noise from foot traffic. Laminate flooring can be installed over nearly any firm, flat flooring material.
Parko Home Renovations install strips parallel to the longest wall in the room. We keep the strips about 1/4" away from
the side wall and end wall so the floor can expand with changes in temperature and moisture. Resilient
flooring __________________________________________________________________________ Sheet
vinyl with resilient backing smoothes out minor surface imperfections. Some sheet vinyl is designated loose lay and doesn’t
require adhesive. Both resilient sheet flooring and resilient tile require a smooth surface for proper adhesive
bonding. Parko Home Renovations can repair an irregular surface with an embossing leveler or a masonry leveling
compound. When the surface is dry, we spread adhesive with a notched trowel, following the adhesive manufacturers instructions.
Laying the tile so joints don’t coincide with the joints in the underlayment. Cork
tile __________________________________________________________________________ Cork is a
natural sound absorber and insulator. It is quiet underfoot, and can last for decades when properly maintained. Cork will
expand and contract based on humidity, although to a lesser degree than wood. Granite and
marble tile __________________________________________________________________________ Common
granite and marble surface finishes include polished, honed, and flamed. A polished surface is highly reflective, and is best
suited for low-traffic areas. A honed surface has a duller, more slip-resistant finish that’s less likely to show scratches.
Flamed tiles have a deeply textured surface that’s useful for applications requiring additional slip-resistance. Marble
is softer and more porous than granite, so it’s more susceptible to scratches, but it can be repolished when necessary.
Marble is also susceptible to damage from alcohols, oils and acids commonly found in the home. A penetrative sealer is generally
recommended when installing marble in high-risk areas such as kitchens and bathrooms. Ceramic TileCeramic
Tile __________________________________________________________________________ Colors
and grains will vary from tile to tile and batch to batch. Ceramic tile can be set in either mortar (thin-set or thick-set)
or applied with adhesive. Tile is set on backerboard, cement board reinforced with polymer-coated glass mesh. Common names
are Durock®, WonderBoard®, RhinoBoard® and Hardibacker®. Ceramic tile definitions __________________________________________________________________________ • Field tiles make up
most of the job, the "field". • Border tiles are trim pieces set around the edge of the field. •
Listello tiles have a decorative design different from field tile and are generally used on the edge of the field, like the
frame of a picture. • Rope tiles, as you might expect, have a rope design, usually in raised relief, and are used
on the border. Tips on Ceramic TileTips on Ceramic Tile __________________________________________________________________________ Tips on ceramic tile __________________________________________________________________________ Most
ceramic tile carries a PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute) wear rating: • Class 1, no foot traffic.
Interior residential and commercial walls only. • Class 2, light traffic. Interior residential
and commercial walls and residential bathroom floors. • Class 3, light to moderate traffic.
Residential floors, countertops, and walls. • Class 4, moderate to heavy traffic. Residential,
medium commercial and light institutional floors and walls. • Class 5, heavy to extra-heavy
traffic. Residential, commercial and institutional floors and walls. Indoor vs. outdoor tile __________________________________________________________________________ Tile that absorbs
water will crack when exposed to freezing and thawing. Tile with an absorption rating of 3 percent or less is usually considered
acceptable for outdoor use. That includes vitrified and porcelain ceramic tiles. Outdoor tile is very dense and doesn’t
break easily. Use thin-set mortar with a latex admix. Matching styles and batches __________________________________________________________________________ Tile colors
and glazes can vary from batch to batch. To make matching easier, many tile manufacturers emboss batch numbers into the back
of each tile.
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We offer bathroom remodeling design, installation and remodeling of bathtub, shower enclosure and other bathroom fixtures.
Our remodleing services include: - Floor plan design
- Demolition
- Bath tubs
- Shower
- Vanity
- Granite
- Marble
- Tiles
- Fixtures
- Ceiling
- Flooring
- Electrical
- Plumbing
- Painting
The layout of the new bathroom remodel should be functional
so that every square inch can be used allowing for enough storage and closet space. Outdated bathrooms
were small and not efficient. Today’s bathrooms are remodeled into spacious and well-designed with
separate soaking tub and glass shower enclosure, double sinks and relaxation areas.
The remodeled bathroom should give a feeling of peace and serenity, allow you to relax and relieve stress white
taking a bath or a shower. Jacuzzis
or sophisticated showers with multiple jets are now available on
the market, allowing homeowners to turn their ordinary bathrooms into extraordinary spas. Nothing accents
the bathroom more than a proper lighting fixtures as well as sunlight, which can be achieved by having a window over the tub. Accessorizing your bathroom with green plants,
artwork and pictures helps to personalize the room and enjoy the surroundings.
Nothing
makes a more distinctive statement in your remodeled bathroom than wooden cabinetry. Since the bathroom
cabinets are not only stylish but functional
as well, the storage possibilities are virtually endless. The complete line would include hutches, linen cabinets, console linen, pilaster or separate wall units for towels and artwork.
His and hers vanity cabinets with a sit down area, decorative features
and marble top are among the most popular choice for homeowners. Mirrors
and its different sizes and styles can dramatically change the look
of the bathroom and its size. Mirror finishes should match the cabinetry and enhance the spaciousness.
Large
showers with a seat, overhead shower and also multiple shower heads in a custom oversized enclosure are increasingly popular.
Taking a shower seating and relaxing allows your body, mind and soul to rejuvenate and feel as if you were taking
a bath.
Bathroom sinks and faucets add another important touch when remodeling your bathroom. Faucets are made of stainless steel, chrome, bronze, nickel,
brass, iron and copper. The color of the faucet should match and compliment
the sink, mirrors and cabinets as well as the complete look of the bathroom. Brass, bronze and nickel go
well with warm or neutral colors and finishes. Polished chrome and stainless
steel emphasize refined and dramatic look especially when surrounded by cold colors.
Every bathroom needs at least one GFCI-protected outlet by the sink, even if the vanity lighting fixture includes an outlet.
The receptacle needs to be far enough away from the bathtub and shower to prevent the use of electric shavers or hairdryers
while bathing.
BATHROOM VENTING Every
bathroom needs ventilation to prevent the accumulation of moisture and mold. If the bathroom to be remodeled is on an exterior
wall, you should consider a window with an opening equivalent to 10 percent of the bathroom floor area. If your
bathroom has only interior walls, the building code requires a fan with ducting to the exterior. Putting both the fan and
light on the same switch guarantees the fan will be running when the bathroom is in use, although you may prefer independent
switches. Switches or electrical fixtures cannot be within arm’s reach of someone using the tub or shower. BATHTUBS
THE CHOICES Cast iron and steel bathtubs are heavy, even when they’re not filled with water. Fifty
gallons of water in a tub adds another 400 pounds to the floor load. Floor joists in older homes were seldom designed
to take such a concentrated load. Should you decide to have a heavier type tub installed in your bathroom remodeling
project, then we suggest reinforcing the floor joists and adding cross bridging between joists. We may also need to double
the studs. Even a shower stall can stress floor joists that weren’t designed to support bathroom fixtures. If you plan
to have installed ceramic tile on walls, floors or vanity tops, additional framing to the floor and wall to support the additional
weight to provide more strength might be suggested. Ceramic tile is heavy and requires rock-solid support to resist cracking. BATHROOM
SPACE AND MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO CONSIDER WHEN REMODELING A BATHROOM •5' x 4' – smallest
two-fixture bathroom •5' x 7' – smallest three-fixture bathroom •12" – from
the center of a toilet to the end of a tub •15" – from the center of a toilet to the side of a tub •15"
– from the center of a toilet to an adjacent wall or shower stall •15" – from the center of a
toilet to the center of an adjacent lavatory •15" – from the center of a lavatory to an adjacent wall
or shower stall •30" – distance between two lavatories mounted in the same countertop •32"
to 34" – usual height for the top of vanities and lavatories •32" x 32" – width and
depth of a square shower stall •30" x 60" – width and length of standard tubs •26"
– height of the toilet paper roll holder above the floor •21" – depth of standing space while
washing hands at a lavatory •36" – depth of standing space to open a sliding shower door •44"
– depth of standing space to open a hinged shower door
Some building codes set minimum bathroom dimensions.
As usual, the code is the last word.
Click here so you can fill out our request an estimate form
Parko Home Renovations
for Bathroom Remodeling and Renovations That Add Value and Comfort Bathroom Remodeling is a Parko Home Renovations Remodeling Specialty Since 1993, Bathroom Remodeling has been one of the home improvement
services most requested by Parko Home Renovations customers. At Parko Home Renovations, Bathroom designs are something
we’ve had a lot of experience with. Bathroom remodeling can immediately increase the value of your house (visit
http://www.parkohome.com for a cost vs. value report). Bathroom remodeling can return most of its cost in value added to your house. Bathroom remodeling
can also save you time during the hectic rush at the beginning of the workday and make your home a more comfortable place
to come home to after the workday ends. Deciding on the Right Bathroom Remodel for You Parko Home Renovations can help you determine how extensive the bathroom remodel needs to be, based on
the space available and the budget you’re working with. You can start by identifying the reasons you feel the need for
the Bathroom remodel. Our customers typically want to re-do bathrooms for one of these reasons: - Updated bathrooms help sell houses.
Bathrooms and kitchens, in particular, are important rooms to potential buyers. When a bathroom design is up to date,
functional, and attractive, it’s one more reason a buyer will be interested in making an offer on your home. If you’re
doing a bathroom remodel primarily to sell your house, even a modest bathroom remodel can accomplish what’s needed
and create a clean, attractive space at the same time. Without breaking the bank.
- A Bathroom remodel can add luxury to your life. Because
the bathroom is one of the most frequently visited rooms in the house, many of our customers wanted more than the basics.
If you’re looking for more luxury in addition to more functionality, you can select from high-end fixtures, appliances,
designs, and décor options to give you that touch of luxury you’ve always wanted. With the right planning and
the right budget, you can turn an ordinary bathroom into a haven that offers you hours of relaxation without leaving
your home.
Preparing the Bathroom remodel Designs Whatever your reason for wanting a bathroom remodel, Parko Home
Restorations has the expertise to help you identify the changes you’re looking for. The owner of Parko Home Renovations
not a salesman will visit you at home, look over your existing bathroom arrangements, talk with you about your home renovation
and remodeling goals, discuss options, draw up plans, show you samples, and help you make the necessary decisions about the
bathroom remodeling work you want to undertake.
Some Bathroom remodeling Considerations Parko Home Renovations will discuss with you key considerations that can affect how well your new bathroom remodeling
design will meet your needs. Here are some of the important factors you’ll want to consider: - Bathroom remodeling make a statement.
If you’re optimizing your home’s appeal in preparation for putting it on the market, even a modest bathroom remodel
of your existing room can make a significant difference to prospective buyers. Adding cabinets to accommodate the storage
of additional linens and supplies, installing new hardware on existing cabinets, updating a shower enclosure, and replacing
worn fixtures are all good options for adding appeal and increasing your home’s value. Based on years of experience
with bathroom remodeling designs, Parko Home Renovations will have several ideas for you to consider.
- Bathroom remodeling design serves family members
more efficiently. To relieve morning and evening crowding in your existing bathroom, Parko Home Renovations can suggest
a bathroom remodeling plan that can accommodate every family member more comfortably.
- Fixtures, appliances, and the finishing touches
can be basic or luxurious.Whether you select a plain, serviceable tub, shower, toilet, and sink or opt for a multiple-head
shower, a spa-steam system, or a sauna, Parko Home Restorations can introduce you to options that fit a budget of any size.
You can choose from cabinet finishes, hardware, flooring, and lighting selections that come in a wide range of styles and
prices.
- Vanity
cabinets and other storage spaces.Whether you’re updating your existing cabinets or replacing them with new
ones, Parko Home Renovations can help you decide on cabinet sizes, designs, materials, finishes, hardware, and shelving options
that fit in with your overall look, give you more storage options, and make the best use of the available space.
- Plumbing,
electrical, framing, drywall, and other work. For more in-depth bathroom remodeling, Parko Home Renovations will
discuss with you the demolition, plumbing, and wiring work that needs to be completed. To help save costs we have had some
of our customers do some of the work. If your bathroom layout is being changed, walls and floors will need to be re-done.
Parko Home Renovations is licensed and experienced in bathroom remodeling we can repair or replace existing plumbing
and electrical systems so these systems meet current building code requirements. Heating and ventilation requirements will
also be addressed.
- Countertops,
sinks, backsplashes, and wall treatments add to the visual appeal. As with your kitchen, your bathroom counter-top,
sinks, backsplashes, and wall treatments come in a range of colors, materials, and prices. Parko Home Renovations can
help you decide on the options that best fit with your bathroom remodel. When you become our customer we let you use
our supplier discounts at our suppliers. We never mark up material. Why should we it is your materials we just supply knowledge,
experience, skill, and craftsmanship.
Ceramic tile definitions • Field tiles make up most of the job, the "field". •
Border tiles are trim pieces set around the edge of the field. • Listello tiles have a decorative design different
from field tile and are generally used on the edge of the field, like the frame of a picture. • Rope tiles, as
you might expect, have a rope design, usually in raised relief, and are used on the border. Tips on Ceramic TileTips
on Ceramic Tile Tips on Ceramic Tile Most ceramic tile carries a PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute)
wear rating: • Class 1, no foot traffic. Interior residential and commercial walls only. • Class 2,
light traffic. Interior residential and commercial walls and residential bathroom floors. • Class 3, light to moderate
traffic. Residential floors, countertops, and walls. • Class 4, moderate to heavy traffic. Residential, medium
commercial and light institutional floors and walls. • Class 5, heavy to extra-heavy traffic. Residential, commercial
and institutional floors and walls.
Siding
Siding should be installed
to not trap water behind and cause the surface behind to rot. Aluminum trim should be bent in a way that creates strength
to minimize the wrinkles and shed any water that may be trapped behind the siding. And as always be secured as per industry
standards.
We at Parko Home Renovations install siding and trim using our in house carpenters, not sub-contractors.
This way we are sure that the quality of the installation is to our standards.
Click here so you can fill out our request an estimate form
______________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ Inspecting
for Decay Exposure to sun, wind and rain tends to open wood grain. The result is a higher moisture content which supports
the growth of wood-destroying organisms. Nearly all wood decays if it remains moist for long periods. Check for decay and
insect damage with a screwdriver. Wood has lost nearly all its load-carrying capacity when you can push a common screwdriver
blade into the grain. Deck flooring needs to be replaced when it sags under foot traffic. Check the crawl space under
the porch or deck for signs of dampness. Condensation forms on the underside of an elevated porch or deck when there isn't
proper ventilation. Replace decayed framing with treated lumber. Give particular attention to posts that are in contact
with concrete. Posts should be replaced when heavily decayed. Support the new post slightly above the porch floor with a post
anchor. Embed the post anchor in concrete to help protect the porch roof from uplift wind forces. If a decayed post
is strictly ornamental, consider cutting off the decayed base. Replace the decayed portion with a wood block secured to the
concrete with a pin and a washer. Add base trim to conceal the patch. Keep trim pieces slightly above the concrete so moisture
can escape.
Choices in Porch and Deck Floor Plank Western red cedar and redwood are naturally decay-
and insect-resistant. The cost is higher than pressure-treated lumber, especially in areas remote from the west coast of the
U.S. and Canada, where western red cedar and redwood are milled. For decks, use either construction common or construction
heart redwood. "Merch" redwood is a lower grade ("merchantable") and has more knots and sapwood. Heart
redwood is cinnamon-red and has more natural decay-resistance. The sapwood is creamy yellow. The most common widths are 4
inches and 6 inches. Lengths are usually 8, 12 and 16 feet. Both 5/4 inch and nominal 2 inch thickness are available. When
left unfinished, both redwood and cedar turn a rustic gray after a few years. Apply water-repellent or stain to retard the
color change. We don't recommend varnishes and other film-forming coatings, which will crack and peel on a walking surface.
Both western red cedar and redwood are relatively soft and can be abraded under foot traffic. Pressure-treated lumber
makes sturdy and durable deck material. Most treated lumber sold for decking measures 5/4 inches (1-1/4 inches) or nominal
2 inches thick and from 4 inches to 6 inches wide. Lengths are from 8 feet to 16 feet. Shorter lengths and narrower widths
cost less per square foot of deck. Longer and wider pieces cost more but require less labor for installation. Pressure-treated
wood decking costs less than other decking materials but should be fastened with galvanized nails or screws. All hangers and
fasteners should be hot-dipped galvanized, such as Simpson Zmax. For 2-inch lumber, use 12d nails or 3-inch screws. For 5/4-inch
decking, use 10d nails or 2-1/2-inch screws. Most pressure-treated lumber isn't pretty. It comes from the lumber yard
tinted green from the residue of the ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary) or CA (copper azol) treatment. Soft areas in the wood
absorb more stain than the harder portions. The result is a mottled appearance that won't win any prizes. Exposure to
the sun and rain will fade the deck from green to honey to gray after a few years. Unless deck lumber has been coated already
(Thompsonized), apply a water-repellant top coat immediately after installation.
Choices in Floor Planks
__________________________________________________________________________ All
wood deck requires occasional maintenance. Check for splits, warping, popped nails and splinters. Unless the you like
the look of aged wood, you will need to apply a coat of sealer every few years. Synthetics include composites
made from a combination of recycled wood fiber and recycled thermoplastics. These products (Fiberon is one name) look like
real wood and have characteristics like real wood. For example, composites don't expand and contract as much as thermoplastics.
But composites made from wood fiber will absorb moisture and tend to age like real wood. You can cut or drill composites with
an ordinary hand drill or hand saw equipped with a carbide tip blade. Composites can be stained or painted and should never
require maintenance. Deck planks made from rice hulls (Edeck®) are stronger than other composites and don't absorb
moisture like deck lumber made from wood fiber. Edeck® requires installation with T-clips that permit expansion and contraction
as the deck material heats and cools. Some synthetics tend to be more slippery than real wood, especially when wet.
Another
choice is the solid core PVC type plank (Veka Deck). This product is approved for Marine applications as it does not absorb
the heat from the sun and is not slippery when wet. Solid core PVC is a no maintenace type plank.
Click here to request an estimate for electrical work
Most older homes have electrical systems that are in perfectly good working order
– but completely inadequate by modern standards. They have too little power, too few circuits and far too few outlets.
Even if the electrical service in the home has been upgraded in the last 25 years, more circuits may be needed to keep up
with the demand created by today’s multitude of electrical conveniences. Few homes built before World War I were
wired for electricity. Circuits were added later, usually gouged into plaster walls or run behind baseboards. In the 1920s
and 1930s, most new homes were planned for 40 amps. The next jump was to four 15-amp circuits, or 60 amps total power. Many
rooms had only a single duplex receptacle and a switched light fixture. By the 1950s, 100 amps was considered adequate power,
unless the plan included an electric range or electric heat. Since the 1970s, 150 amps has been considered the minimum for
a small home and 200 amps a better choice for most homes.
If the
ampacity available isn’t enough to carry the planned loads for your home improvement, you’ll need a new service
panel, and possibly a larger service drop from the electric company. If there’s nothing wrong with the existing electrical
system, you can just leave it in place. Then upgrade by adding more circuits and outlets and the new electrical service panel.
Most building departments will allow non-electricians to do minor work, such as adding an outlet or switch, but a licensed
electrician will be required for service upgrades. An electrician will be able to calculate what size panel you’ll need
to install. While doing that math, he can also figure the most efficient way to run circuits to new light fixtures, appliances
and outlets.
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Adding Outlets and Switches Most rooms in old houses have a single electrical
outlet, and all the outlets in the house may be on the same 15-amp circuit. That’s enough power for a few lamps and
not much more. It certainly won’t support a modern lifestyle. You may be able to turn on the lights and watch TV in
the evening, but forget the microwave popcorn! The NEC sets standards for residential electrical outlets. These standards
may or may not be enforced in home improvement projects in your community. The degree that these regulations affect your project
may be a matter for negotiation between the contractor and the building department. Select an electrical contractor with experience
in negotiating with building inspectors. Remember, however, that the code exists for a reason and most of what it requires
is simply good professional practice. Follow the code standards whenever possible. Spacing of outlets Spacing
of Outlets – In most rooms, the code requires that no point along the floor line be more than 6' from a receptacle.
That means you need an outlet at least every 12' along walls. Floor outlets don’t help meet this requirement unless
they’re near the wall. Different standards apply to kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms. Spacing in hallways can be
20' and closets don’t need any outlets at all. Spacing of outlets - kitchens Kitchens – Plan at
least two 20-amp small appliance circuits to serve the kitchen, pantry and dining area. These circuits are in addition to
circuits used by the refrigerator, dishwasher, oven, range, garbage disposer and lighting. Every kitchen counter wider than
12" needs at least one outlet. No point on a kitchen counter can be more than 24" from an outlet. That means you
need at outlet at least every 4' over counters. Outlets have to be mounted on a wall, not face-up in the counter. The
outlet next to the sink must be protected with a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Plan on dedicated circuits for the
range, dishwasher, garbage disposer, refrigerator, and microwave oven. A microwave oven will trip the breaker if it’s
on the same circuit with another large appliance, such as a refrigerator. Spacing of outlets - bathrooms Bathrooms
– Every bathroom needs at least one GFCI-protected outlet by the sink, even if the vanity lighting fixture includes
an outlet. Keep the receptacle far enough away from the bathtub and shower to prevent the use of electric shavers or hairdryers
while bathing. Laundry – Provide at least one GFCI-protected duplex receptacle in the laundry area. The laundry
receptacle must be on a dedicated 20-amp circuit. Unfinished Basement or Attic – Provide at least one outlet. Outdoors
– Include a GFCI-protected duplex receptacle at the front and rear of the house. Garage – Provide a GFCI-protected
duplex receptacle for each parking space. Detached garages may not need any outlets. Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter
– GFCI protection opens the circuit when a ground-fault is detected – such as when someone gets an electric shock.
Outlets over the kitchen and bathroom sinks, in the laundry room, garage and outdoors have to be GFCI-protected. Installing
GFCI outlets is easy, assuming the circuit includes a ground wire. Just remove the old outlet and replace it with a GFCI outlet.
You don’t have to buy a GFCI outlet for every receptacle that needs ground-fault protection. Several regular outlets
can be wired to a single GFCI device. Circuitry in the GFCI outlet will protect all attached receptacles. That’s the
good news. The bad news is that GFCI outlets require a ground to work properly. If the old circuit has no ground wire, you’ll
have to run grounded cable to GFCI outlets. Arc-Fault Interrupter – The NEC now requires these special breakers
for circuits that serve sleeping rooms. Regular breakers open when there’s an overload. Arc-fault breakers open any
time the circuit is creating sparks, even if there’s no overload. Outlets per Circuit – Plan on six duplex
outlets per 20-amp circuit. Your electrician may suggest ways to put 10 or even 12 outlets on a circuit and still meet NEC
requirements. The code doesn’t prohibit mixing light fixtures and outlets on the same home run (connection to the breaker
panel). Lights – Every room needs either a switch-operated overhead light or a switch-operated outlet. The code
requires the switch to be located by the door at the room’s entrance. You can run the wiring to any ceiling fixture
that’s still in good condition. If the fixture is worn, broken, or simply unattractive, replacing it is a simple task.
But don’t go overboard on wattage, such as replacing a 75-watt bathroom fixture with a 500-watt heat lamp. If your choice
of replacement fixtures is a fluorescent, be sure there isn’t a grounding problem. Many fluorescent fixtures require
a ground wire. If you install a ceiling fan or a chandelier, plan to set a ceiling fixture box specifically rated for that
purpose. Allow at least 3" between a recessed (non-IC) fixture and any insulation in the ceiling. Better yet, select
a recessed fixture with an insulated case (IC) and thermal cutout specifically rated for installation touching insulation. Smoke
Detectors Nearly all communities require some type of smoke detector. The most common are battery-powered ionization
detectors that recognize products of combustion even before flame is visible. Other types of detectors recognize smoke or
detect a rapid rise in temperature. If you have the opportunity, recommend an AC-powered detector rather than a battery-powered
unit. Surveys show that a high percentage of battery-powered smoke detectors have a dead battery at any given time. For that
reason, many building codes require AC detectors, some with a battery backup.
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Wiring
Residences Nearly all new homes today are wired with non-metallic sheathed cable, but that may not be what you find
when you work on an older house. Depending on its age, you may have some surprises. Knob and Tube Wiring Homes
built before about 1930 usually had knob and tube (K&T) wiring. Wires were strung between porcelain insulators driven
into studs and joists. If wire had to pass through framing, a hollow porcelain tube was inserted in a hole drilled through
the stud or joist. Conductors were usually single strands covered with cloth insulation. You won’t find a ground wire
on K&T. In those days, only lightning rods were grounded. K&T that’s given trouble-free service for nearly
a century could probably do the same for another century, if no further demands were made on the system. But that’s
not likely. Because it isn’t grounded, doesn’t have enough capacity, and its insulation isn’t worthy of
the name, some insurance policies exclude coverage for homes with K&T wiring. For that reason alone, many of these older
homes have already been upgraded. If you find K&T wiring and the owner isn’t willing to replace it, just by-pass
the K&T. Work around it with new circuits. Don’t extend it. If possible, don’t even touch it unless you find
an actual or impending emergency. Aluminum Wiring Aluminum wire is another type that’s no longer
used for interior home electrical systems. Aluminum is a good and durable conductor and is usually less expensive than the
more popular copper. However, late in the 1970s, electricians and code officials began to recognize a problem developing in
homes with aluminum wiring. When aluminum wire carries current, it warms up and expands, just like copper. When it cools,
the aluminum contracts, just like copper. But unlike copper, aluminum connections oxidize during the cool-down phase, creating
resistance where conductors join. With time, the resistance grows into arcing – a spark that passes through the corrosion
(gap) between the wire and the connector. Given the right conditions, that spark can ignite a fire. Aluminum Wiring The
aluminum wire itself isn’t the problem. It’s the wire connections that are to blame. You don’t need to rip
out all the aluminum wire you find. But it’s prudent to check connections in a home wired with aluminum. Electrical
devices used with aluminum wire should be rated specifically for aluminum (usually stamped CO/ALR or Al/Cu). Look for signs
of overheating, such as blackened connections or melted insulation. If you elect to extend an aluminum circuit using copper
wire, your electrician will need to rent a special crimping tool made just for the purpose. When crimped, the wire connection
must be covered with anti-oxidant grease. Aluminum wire is still widely used for residential service entrance, though
not for concealed wiring in walls and ceilings. Wires run between the house and the public utility grid are larger in diameter
and require very few connections. That makes aluminum a good choice. For interior wiring, the price advantage of aluminum
over copper usually isn’t worth the risk or the extra trouble, though aluminum wire with a copper coating is used in
some communities. Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable Non-metallic sheathed cable, called Romex or "rope"
by electricians, is the most common wire type used in homes today. The NEC classifies it as Type NM cable. (Type NM-B cable
is identical but has a slightly-better temperature rating.) Romex has two or more insulated conductors and a ground wire,
all covered in a plastic sheath. It’s popular because it’s inexpensive and easy to install. You can use NM cable
in wall cavities where the wire is protected from physical damage and unlikely to get either wet or hot. When it’s run
through 2" x 4" stud walls, protect the cable at each stud with a metal plate to prevent damage from nails. Romex
cable can be stapled to studs, rather than attached with nail-on hangers or supports. Most electrical codes permit the use
of plastic (rather than metal) outlet boxes with NM cable. You can’t use Romex for exposed wiring on walls if
it’s within 5' of the floor. But most inspectors will approve Type AC (armored cable) for that purpose. AC is like
Romex but includes a flexible aluminum cover that protects it against physical damage. If the inspector won’t accept
AC cable for exposed runs, you may have to install conduit. Unlike electric cable, conduit includes no wire. It’s a
protective tube through which wire is pulled. Conduit is used in most commercial buildings and occasionally in residences,
such as in the service entrance mast where overhead wires terminate at the entrance cap. Flexible (flex), EMT (electric metallic
tube), GRS (galvanized rigid steel) and IMC (intermediate rigid conduit) are the most common types of conduit. Flex is a hard
metallic tube with enough flexibility to snake through studs. EMT is lightweight but not flexible. GRS conduit is heavier.
IMC falls between EMT and GRS. Each of these types has specialized uses. Ground Wire Electrical wire
size is measured in American wire gauge (AWG) and usually abbreviated with the pound sign. For example, #14-3 indicates a
14-gauge wire with three conductors (and probably a separate bare ground wire). The smaller the gauge number, the bigger the
wire and the greater its current-carrying capacity. Most circuits in a home are rated at 15 amps and use 14-gauge copper wire.
Circuits for kitchen appliances should be rated at 20 amps and use 12-gauge copper wire. Circuits for an electric water heater,
air conditioner or electric clothes dryer should be 30 amps and use 10-gauge copper wire. An electric range requires 6-gauge
copper wire and a 50-amp breaker. All of these cables should include a copper ground wire. Usually Type THHN wire is
used with conduit because it has a heat-resistant thermoplastic cover. THHN is available in many colors to simplify the identification
of conductors after the wire is pulled in the conduit. Small gauges are solid wire. Larger gauges are stranded wire, usually
19 strands per conductor. Stranded wire is a slightly better conductor than solid wire. It’s also not as stiff, so it’s
easier to pull stranded wire in conduit. Use Type UF cable for underground runs or in damp locations. It’s not
required by all codes, but common sense dictates that buried UF cable be trenched deep enough to make accidental damage unlikely.
Either enclose the UF in PVC conduit or lay a warning tape in the trench over the wire before it’s backfilled. Protect
cable with conduit wherever it’s exposed, particularly where it exits the residence. For outdoor wiring, junction boxes
and outlet boxes must be rated waterproof, and all receptacles must be GFCI-protected.
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Kitchen appliances You’ll never see an old kitchen with adequate electrical
service. Upgrading the electrical service is a prime reason for remodeling most kitchens. Consider the following checklist
when planning extra runs from the electrical service panel. Note that some building codes require as many as three ground-fault
receptacles in the kitchen. If you’re adding base cabinets, figure which electrical outlets have to be moved. Kitchen
Electrical Service Checklist: Ceiling fixture Ceiling paddle fan Clock in soffit Dishwasher Disposer Electric
range Range hood Soffit lighting (fluorescent strip) Light fixture recessed over the sink Light fixture
over the desk Microwave oven Oven Refrigerator Three ground-fault receptacles Small appliance
outlets Trash compactor T.V. Wall or ceiling exhaust fan Wall switches
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Home Improvement - Remodeling - Decks - Siding - Finish carpentry 
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| Home improvements – Kitchen - kitchen remodeling – additions - room additions – bathroom - bathroom
remodeling - home remodeling Michigan |
Home improvements – Kitchen - kitchen remodeling – additions - room additions – bathroom - bathroom
remodeling - home remodeling Michigan
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